This Assignemnt is actually a Booth submission, which is read and reviewed by all participants in the onlineclass. This is significantly more nerve-wracking than a typical assignment, but is a good exercise. There is no assigned structure for Booth submissions. For the record, I have received quite positive reviews so far, which is relieving and encouraging.
As I float through hour two aboard my inner tube, rounding one of the many gentle turns in the Nam Song, all my concerns about planning my next destination and budgeting the rest of my travels lazily drift away. The sun, also undeterred by these issues, continues its descent into the West, hiding behind tall trees to give me reprieve from its heated embrace. My focus turns to the temperature of the beer that’s been traveling with me and whether I’ll be able to finish it before the next bartender pulls me ashore. This is stress, Vang Vieng style.
Though Laos has been witness to much strife in recent history, modern Vang Vieng is a peaceful, relaxing setting, where everyone moves at a purposefully slow gait. Able to neutralize the effects of painful bus rides and days overstuffed with activity in South East Asia, Vang Vieng is a perfect destination for those looking to take a vacation from their travels and enjoy the natural beauty and slow pace of a small back-packers oasis. If you are hoping to check off the ‘important’ sights of Laos in rapid-fire succession, then you can skip Vang Vieng over while you exchange buses, but if you are a stop-and-smell-the-roses type, then this small village has an entire bouquet for you to enjoy.
Vang Vieng swelled during the Vietnam war as its airstrip, Lima site 6, was a busy terminal for Allied troops and supplies. Once the war subsided, the area became somewhat of a ghost town, with its few remaining inhabitants living quietly within the structures the conflict erected. For a long time, the town was merely a bus exchange site for those traveling from Northern Vientiane to Luang Prabang in the South. During the 80’s, as backpackers loosened their straps and traversed more of the once-hostile area, Vang Vieng evolved into a refuge for those looking for a peaceful escape. The remote location and natural beauty of the area nurture an introspective mindset, and the town provides plenty of free time to either ponder or explore its boundaries. The village is nestled amongst limestone mountains which give the sense of peace and security, as if the Earth is there to stand guard while you let yours down for a brief stay.
Vang Vieng sprawls out within the valley beside the river that has been its lifeblood, the Nam Song. This waterway has traditionally been the supply route for the small outpost, but it now also provides the areas’ main tourist attraction: inner tubing. Like much else in this village, the tubing has no schedule and very limited organization, yet it is still quite cheap and easy to manage. Simply walk to the proper end of the village (the South) and attach yourself to one of the many local outfits providing tubes and a drive to the mouth of the river, all for about $5 US total. If you feel parched, grab a large $2 BeerLao before embarking and allow the river to keep it cool while you navigate the waters. Tubing can be an adrenaline rush or a peaceful cruise, depending on your whims for the day. If you’re after some excitement, the riverside bars will pull you ashore, skimming you off the river as they fish for your business. The bars allow you to refresh yourself (again) while you wait for your turn on the huge swing ropes or to challenge the current champion of the volleyball court. Mingle with fellow travelers or find a slice of space to the side and take a nap. Departure from each bar is as simple as picking up a vacant tube and gliding back into the current until the next bar beckons you ashore. Days on the water can be as long or short as you wish, and there is no guide or usher anywhere in site to interfere with the pace you set.
The evenings in Vang Vieng are spent in one of the many restaurants in town, recovering from a taxing day of tubing or cave exploring. These open-air cafes consist of rows of elevated platforms on which a table is situated at the foot of a mound of pillows. Plop down into one of the vacant pods, which are all oriented facing the front, where large-screen TVs screen countless episodes of popular North American sitcoms on endless loop. These establishments serve plenty of native dishes, but also make efforts to provide ‘home cooked’ North American fare such as hamburgers and pizza. After a long day in the sun and an inexpensive, tasty meal, it is easy to dose off for a while amongst the pillows. It is therefore a good thing that napping, here, is also tolerated, if not encouraged.
This tranquil oasis may not be for everyone, though, as the traveler looking for native culture and unique Laotian life may be disappointed by the tourist-filled streets and frequent reminders of life back home. Like any outpost that depends on and caters to the tourist, Vang Vieng provides limited opportunities to glimpse into the history or lifestyle of the Laos people. This village is a welcome escape, though, as traveling through South East Asia can be a tiring, overwhelming experience. It is easy to cynically summarize the town as a simple hedonistic tourist stop, but if you accept and embrace the merits of this place, it can reenergize the weary and set a positive tone for further exploration of the region.
On the last day before my departure I sat at the bank of the river, the dusk breeze gently rocking my hammock, and contemplated my next destination and beyond. In a short period of time here I had grown accustomed to a slow, appreciative pace to my days and I hoped that I could maintain this cadence in the larger cities that lay ahead. Surprisingly, when I allowed myself to accept a slower pace, it didn’t long before I began to dread the thought of getting into a faster one.
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